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Week 1:

  • Start purchasing plant material.
  • Choose a sunny isolated spot and construct a new compost bin; work last year's compost into the soil. As new waste is added, turn the pile and moisten as needed.
  • Complete tree and shrub pruning.
  • Begin removal of winter coverings and rake the lawn.
  • If not already done, apply pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide to lawn. Do not reseed for four weeks after application.
  • Schedule spring start up for your irrigation system.

Week 2:

  • Thatch and aerate lawn. Overseed bare areas, noting that soil must be 50 degrees for germination.
  • Plants trees and shrubs if soil permits.
  • Begin your fungicide spray program on fruit and crab trees, before they leaf out.
  • Apply dormant oil sprays for insect control, if temperatures are consistently over 40 degrees.

Week 3:

  • Start sodding new lawns/areas, as sod becomes available.
  • Remove dead branches and canes from vines and roses.
  • Initial sprays for Gall aphids should be applied to spruce trees.
  • Fertilize trees, shrubs and evergreens.
  • Consult your DJFLCI rep to review or add maintenance services.

Week 4:

  • Remove alternate sump pump drain pipe and store again until October.
  • Cultivate flower and vegetable gardens if soil is dry and workable.
  • Apply pre-emergent weed killer to shrubs and perennials beds.
  • Fertilize lawn per results of soil analysis. Fertilize trees and shrubs, especially evergreens which go dormant earlier than deciduous plants.
  • All winter coverings should be removed, such as paper and plastic tree wraps, if there are no hard nighttime freezes expected.
  • Remove soil mound from roses.


Transplant existing plant materials prior to breaking of buds.

Perform weekly moisture checks of all new plant materials using a moisture meter.